Mayan Smith-Gobat (born 1979) is a professional big-wall climber from New Zealand and, as of 2019, held the record for fastest all-female team ascent of El Capitan's The Nose in Yosemite, California at four hours and forty three minutes. Smith-Gobat, along with climbing partner Libby Sauter, completed the climb in October, 2014. Other notable ascents include her 2012 first female ascent (FFA) of Punks in the Gym (5.14a) in the Arapiles climbing region of Australia, and the first all female Half Dome/El Cap link up in Yosemite in 2013.

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Early life[edit]

Smith-Gobat is from Christchurch, New Zealand. Although she became interested in alpine and sport climbing around Mount Cook as a teenager, her focus turned to alpine skiing for several years. In 2000, she was competing in extreme skiing competitions and ranked as the best female extreme skier in New Zealand.^[1] Smith-Gobat recalls that 'when I left school I became side-tracked by skiing - I followed winters around the world and barely climbed for a couple of years.. until a skiing accident turned my attention back to climbing' at the age of 21.^[2] Smith-Gobat had been skiing in Breckenridge, Colorado at the time of the accident, a run-in with a pine tree. The collision broke a heel in one leg and ankle in the other, and left her with a temporarily wired-shut jaw and six months of crutches. Grounded from skiing, Smith-Gobat turned to climbing as an outlet for her energies.^[3]

Climbing Achievements[edit]

After recovery from her accident, Smith-Gobat began racking up a string of sport climbing and bouldering accomplishments. Starting in 2002, Smith-Gobat made FFAs of many New Zealand-based bouldering routes and won the New Zealand National Bouldering Series in 2002, 2003 and 2004, and the Christchurch Indoor Bouldering Series in 2005. Photoshop 2020 mac crack. By 2007 she was climbing up to 8b+ (V10/5.14a) level routes, including a first ascent Heaven/ Little Babylon (8b/8b+) in Milford, NZ.^[1] By the late 2000s, Smith-Gobat was one of the leading climbers from New Zealand, male or female, as the first New Zealander to complete an 8c level climb, with L’academicien in Ceuse, France.^[4]

Salathé Wall[edit]

By 2009, Smith-Gobat was climbing in Yosemite and interested in taking on big-wall challenges. The Salathé Wall is a classic route up El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. At approximately 3500 ft and 35-pitches, it is also one of the longest routes, known for its difficult, off-width crack sections. A single female climber, Steph Davis, had previously free climbed Salathé. Smith-Gobat spent the summer of 2010 working out the beta for the crux sections before making a ground-up attempt. Unfortunately, a five-day rain storm hit while she was in the upper reaches of the climb, forcing her to bail out.^[5] In 2011, Smith-Gobat returned and, in a six day final push, managed to complete the remaining pitches, becoming only the second woman to do so.^[6] Later, she described the experience as '900m of air under my feet and only one single flared crack splitting the sheer overhung granite wall. It felt so good.'^[7]

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Speed Climbing The Nose[edit]

Smith-Gobat became interested in attempting to break the women's record for climbing speed on The Nose after hearing how slow the old one was. 'I first started thinking about doing it when the women’s record was 12 hours, basically because I felt that this was almost an embarrassment to us.'^[8] In 2012, she and partner Chantel Astorga set a new record with a seven hour and 26 minute climb of The Nose. They then linked to Half Dome, becoming the first all female team to complete the linked climb in under 24 hours (at 20h:09m).^[9] Smith-Gobat also broke the mixed-gender record for The Nose, finishing it in three hours and 29 minutes with partner Sean Leary.^[10] By the end of 2012, between Salathé, a FFA of Australia's iconic Punks in the Gym (8b+) in October, 2012 and the Yosemite speed records, Planet Mountain would describe Smith-Gobat as 'certainly one of the world's leading rock climbers.'^[6]

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In 2014, with partner Libby Sauter, Smith-Gobat would set a new women's record, four hours and forty three minutes. The women made several attempts that season, improving in speed each time. Smith-Gobat noted that they had to work both on developing trust and communication and to learn a different style of climbing that emphasized speed over safety. The team decreased the number of bolts, increasing the height of any potential fall. On easier sections, the climbers simul-climbed, a higher-risk climbing technique, while on harder sections, they employed a short-fixing style.^[11] Smith-Gobat described the technique they used to increase speed as 'pretty risky..if I fall off, I'm hopefully not going to die, but I'm going to fall a hell of a long way before I hit the end of that rope.'^[12] She noted that 'the main difference between us and the guys who are climbing it in 2:30, is that they simulclimb more of the upper half of the route, where we are short-fixing more to keep it within the safety margin we are happy with.'^[11]

Riders on the Storm[edit]

2016 Attempt[edit]

By 2016, Smith-Gobat had turned her focus towards making the first free ascent of Riders on the Storm, a massive 1300 m (4265 ft) route up the east face of Torre Central in Torres del Paine, Patagonia. Dream avatar creator tinierme. The region surrounding Torre Central is notorious for fickle weather and poor conditions. Several key pitches are nearly always encased in ice, and the route, crusted with unstable rock, requires strength in a variety of styles, including crack, roof and face.^[13]Wolfgang Güllich and Kurt Albert put up Riders on the Storm over the winter of 1990/1991 using a mixed aid climbing technique.^[14] The original climbers were able to free climb pitches up to 7c (5.12d) and aid climb to A3. While the first free ascent of Riders is considered a 'plum objective throughout the big wall climbing world,' according to PlanetMountain , the region's notoriously bad weather and the allure of more popular routes nearby at Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, limited the number of attempts. Up to 2016, three teams successfully reached the summit following Riders on the Storm, none making a free ascent.^[15]

Over the course of 15 days in January and February 2016, Smith-Gobat, climbing partner Ines Papert and photographer Thomas Senf broached the climb.^[16] The climbers began with a rare stretch of good weather, and were able to establish a five-pitch free climbing variant to avoid a section that had previously only been possible with aid climbing. They also succeeded at free climbing two previously unconquered upper pitches and became the fifth team to reach the summit on February 6. The duo endured numb hands and feet and near-miss rockfalls. At one point, they developed an innovative, but disconcerting, technique to deal with the ice, wearing a climbing shoe on one foot and an ice boot with crampons on the other.^[13] After summit day, with deteriorating weather and 110 mph winds in the forecast, the team resolved to try to complete the remaining four pitches they had yet to free climb.

Early on in the attempt, they were delayed for several hours when they found that their cached ropes and equipment had been buried under an avalanche and needed to be dug out. During the ascent, the predicted high winds hit, and after struggling to reach the portaledge, they decided to descend.^[17] Continuing bad weather ended the trip without the first free ascent, although they achieved the summit and free climbed several new sections, extending the difficulty level to 7c+ (5.13a). The women had several near misses, surviving a rock fall into their portaledge and another that split Papert's helmet, and a nearly spliced rope. While Smith-Gobat wanted to give the route another try, Papert decided to forgo a second attempt, saying 'I have had a lot of luck on the wall. Even though the prospect of coming back is very tempting, I have decided the level of risk is not worth it.'^[13]

2017 Attempt[edit]

Smith-Gobat recruited a new partner for the second attempt, up-and-coming climber Brette Harrington, who, at 25 years old, was making a name for herself with trad and free soloing accomplishments.^[18] Prior to her return, Smith-Gobat allowed that she wondered why so few others had successfully reached the summit. However, Torre Central presented a new face in 2017, one that made it clear exactly how difficult the task was going to be. 'When Brette Harrington and I approached Torre Central our hearts sank: the lower slabs were covered in ice and ice snow, unrecognizable from last season.' The climbers struggled through the lower sections to reach the four remaining pitches. They had originally planned to free climb all the lower pitches as well, but given poor conditions, they resolved to get to the crux pitches any way they could. In 2016, it took Papert and Smith-Gobat two days to reach the crux, but nearly four weeks the second time.^[14] Each morning they would wake at 3am, hoping for a break in the weather, only to encounter punishingly high winds, ice covered slabs, and wet rock. In the end, they were only able to work on the crux pitches for two days out of the six week attempt. Afterwards, Smith-Gobat would write of the experience 'all I wanted to do was leave and never come back. It felt as if we were forcing something that was not meant to be—like swimming against a strong current. I was exhausted .. deep down I knew that leaving would mean never returning to Riders on the Storm. In this moment I hated the place. Hated that it was forcing me to face the one thing that had always terrified me about climbing in Patagonia—to sit still in a tent and wait with nothing to do for weeks on end; to sit and watch all that hard-earned strength waste away, and to what end?'^[19]

Despite falling short of the goal, Harrington and Smith-Gobat free climbed two of the four remaining pitches^[14] and felt that, even with the poor weather, they had been very close on a third.^[19] Harrington later wrote that she believed 'the crux pitches could go,' setting up a possible return trip for the duo.^[20] However, as of 2019, both Harrington and Smith-Gobat were focusing on other goals,^[21][22] with no public plans for another attempt on Riders on the Storm. Hp laserjet p1102 printer driver free download.

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References[edit]

1. ^ ^abLaeser, Luke. 'New Zealand's Mayan Smith-Gobat'. Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 2019-03-28.
2. ^'Mayan Smith-Gobat interview'. PlanetMountain.
3. ^'Mayan Smith-Gobat: Climber For All Seasons'. Rock and Ice.
4. ^'Mayan Smith-Gobat, first female ascent of Punks in the Gym at Arapiles'. PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2019-03-28.
5. ^'Salathe Wall'. Mayan Smith-Gobat. Retrieved 2019-03-31.
6. ^ ^abFox, Amanda. 'Mayan Gobat-Smith Frees Salathé Wall'. Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 2019-03-31.
7. ^'Mayan Smith-Gobat climbs The Salathé Wall on El Capitan'. PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2019-03-28.
8. ^'Walls Without Balls: All Women Big Wall Ascents'. cruxcrush.com. Retrieved 2019-03-28.
9. ^'climbing : Smith-Gobat and Astorga's records in Yosemite Valley'. www.climbandmore.com. Retrieved 2019-03-28.
10. ^'Adidas Five Ten | Speed Climbing is Addictive - Mayan Smith-Gobat | adidasoutdoor'. www.adidasoutdoor.com. Retrieved 2019-03-28.
11. ^ ^ab'Yosemite Hardwomen: An El Cap Speed Ascent Debrief - Alpinist.com'. www.alpinist.com. Retrieved 2019-03-28.
12. ^Video: Speed Climbing El Cap Is a Game of Micro Improvements, 2018-07-12, retrieved 2019-03-28
13. ^ ^abc'RIDERS ON THE STORM'. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
14. ^ ^abc'News - Petzl Patagonia: Mayan Smith-Gobat tests her mettle on 'Riders on the Storm' - Petzl USA'. www.petzl.com. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
15. ^'Torres del Paine in Patagonia: Riders on the Storm too stormy for Mayan Smith-Gobat and Brette Harrington'. PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
16. ^'Riders on the Storm, Central Tower East Face, Torres del Paine, Patagonia - climbing, rock'. www.planetmountain.com. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
17. ^Smith-Gobat, Mayan. 'That One Time: The Ultimate Training Day'. Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
18. ^Andrew Bisharat (2016-06-30). 'Brette Harrington's Solo Soul Serenity'. Evening Sends. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
19. ^ ^ab'Riding the Storm on Torre Central, Patagonia - Alpinist.com'. www.alpinist.com. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
20. ^'Blog - Brette Harrington - Riders on the Storm'. www.sportiva.com. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
21. ^Germany, Norbayerischer Kurier. 'Weltklasse-Kletterin: Mayan Smith-Gobat lässt sich in Plankenfels nieder - Nordbayerischer Kurier'. www.nordbayerischer-kurier.de (in German). Retrieved 2019-03-29.
22. ^'Brette Harrington and Rose Pearson follow their 'Life Compass' to complete a new route in a 21.5-hour push in the Canadian Rockies - Alpinist.com'. www.alpinist.com. Retrieved 2019-03-29.

About A Second Remaining El Capitan Train

• User Reviews of this Guide
  • Fair Logic’s video demonstration on YouTube – September 3, 2016
  • Pyroisonfireee’s review on Reddit – June 24, 2016
  • imtony’s video demonstration on YouTube – March 15, 2016
• General Suggestions
  • Do not encrypt your boot drive with FileVault. Doing so will prevent the system from booting correctly.
  • Keep your El Capitan installation USB on hand. After installing OS X system updates it is sometimes necessary to boot the system with the USB and re-install kexts to get everything working properly again.
  • Use Clover Configurator if you need to mount the EFI partition
  • Using Clover Configurator to edit the default config.plist is not recommended. This program will automatically and without warning makes changes to the default settings in the <key>ACPI</key> section that will prevent the system from booting. If edits are needed, open config.plist with TextEdit and follow the format explained here.
  • If a kernel panic occurs, boot from the installation USB, select the installation drive, hit the space bar and select Boot Mac OS X in safe mode to successfully boot and make necessary changes.
• Touchpad, TrackPoint and Tablet Input
  • Touchpad and TrackPoint use RehabMan’s VoodooPS2Controller.kext found here.
  • Turn off the touchpad with the <PrtSc> key if you will only be using the TrackPoint – this will prevent an issue with unintentional double-clicks with the TrackPoint buttons.
  • Touchpad supports three-finger swipe right and left (forward and back) in Finder, Safari and other browsers
  • For X220 Tablet models, pen input should already work properly. For touch input, install ControllerMate and use the script written by user jakibaki available here. Jakibaki’s script also adds some gestures including swipe from top to get Mission Control, swipe from bottom for Launchpad and swipe from left/right to switch workspaces.
• Special Keys
  • The <PrtSc> key toggles the touchpad on and off
  • The <ScrLk> and <Pause> keys adjust screen brightness as do the standard <Fn>+<Home> and <Fn>+<End> keys
  • The <Insert> key will eject the CD/DVD drive (attached by USB or docking station)
  • The blue ThinkVantage button will toggle between normal fan speeds and the maximum fan speed
• Fan Speed and Noise
  • Fan speeds can be reduced by installing the alternate dsdt.aml and ACPIPoller.kext available here
  • Fan noise can also be regulated by changing the BIOS setting under Config > Power > Adaptive Thermal Management to Balanced
• Video / External Displays
  • To enable scaled resolutions of 1536 x 864 and 1920 x 1080 on the stock LCD panel, follow the steps here
  • Video output through VGA, DisplayPort and docking stations works normally for single external monitor configurations (internal LCD + one external monitor)
  • If an external monitor is not automatically detected, open System Preferences > Displays and press the Option key (the Windows key on the X220 keyboard). This will show a Detect Displays button which should make the external monitor show up immediately.
  • If DisplayPort or VGA connections on Core i7 systems do not function properly:
    • Launch Clover Configurator and mount the EFI partition of your installation drive
    • Click File > Open… then select EFI > EFI > CLOVER > config.plist
    • Select SMBIOS in the left panel and click the “magic wand” button on the right
    • Select the MacBook Pro image (second image from the left) and then select MacBook Pro (8,1) – Core i5/i7 (Sandy Bridge) from the pulldown menu at the top
    • Click the OK button and then File > Save to write the changes to your config.plist
    • Restart the computer
• Miscellaneous
  • To enable docking station headphone and microphone ports, use the alternate AppleHDA_20672.kext available here. Simply place this alternate version in Utility and Kext Pack > EFI > CLOVER > kexts > Other and repeat steps 28-30 above.
  • DW1510 wireless cards can be rebranded to identify as native Apple AirPort Extreme cards by following the steps here
  • SuperDuper is an excellent free utility to create a full, bootable backup of your drive that can be restored later if necessary. Follow the steps here to make your backup bootable.
  • HWSensors provides a convenient way to monitor the status of your system from the menu bar
  • Smart Scroll can be installed to enable middle-button TrackPoint scrolling even when the touchpad is disabled
  • Ukelele can be installed to create customized keyboard layouts
  • If the Bluetooth radio is turned off in Windows or Linux it may no longer show up when booting into OS X. Boot back into Windows or Linux to turn the Bluetooth radio back on.
  • If FaceTime or Messages (iMessage) does not work correctly, follow the steps in the guide here
  • Custom “OS X220” desktop wallpaper by user Will is available here
• Sources / Credits
  • Original source of modified BIOS 1.46 is here
  • Included dsdt.aml,config.plist and kext installation script are from the ThinkPad T420 guide found here
  • Guide to editing dsdt.aml with MaciASL can be found here
  • Custom ssdt.aml script source is here
• Not functioning
  • SD Card reader
  • Fingerprint reader
  • Microphone mute button